Winter isn’t an easy time for a lot of businesses. Rain, freezing cold, snow storms and seasonal affective disorder push people inside to wrap themselves in a blanket and doomscroll Facebook. So many of us have forgotten the winter of 2020, when social distancing rules had us all sitting in streateries, bundled up and desperately scooching toward propane patio heaters to stay warm. Channel that same energy with a few recommendations for food trucks you might not be aware of, and help support our friendly neighborhood eateries.
Greektown
Location: Kulshan K1 (2238 James St.)
Info: greektownbellingham.com, @greektown
Greektown, usually found at Kulshan, has the honor of being the only Greek food truck in town — and a really good one at that. Growing up in a Mediterranean household, I can say with confidence that I am an authority on these cuisines. And my professional opinion? It takes me back to visits to the homeland as a kid and family dinners in my childhood home.
What made it even more reminiscent of dinners with my family was the heated argument with Georgeos, the owner, regarding his refusal to let me pay for all my food. Those of you who grew up in a Middle Eastern or Mediterranean household will understand. That being said, the following was not in any way affected by the gratis food (especially since I’ve independently tried every item on the menu).
Monster-sized gyros overflowing with tender chicken thigh, rich pork belly and savory slow-cooked lamb comprise most of the menu, with a very creative and very delicious vegetarian gyro featuring their fresh dolmades. Spanakopita, loaded Greek fries and sweet, crispy baklava round out the menu.
My favorite is the pork belly gyro, with a wonderfully crispy sear on the outside and the decadence of the fatty belly inside — but the loukaniko (a spiced pork sausage) is a close runner-up. The snap of this freshly made Greek sausage gives an amazing textural difference as you chomp through tzatziki-covered fries, feta cheese, toasted pita and fresh vegetables.
The dolmades gyro is the lightest of the gyros on the menu but doesn’t skimp on flavor. The spanakopita is in the form of a spiral, maximizing the ratio between crispy phyllo and the feta and spinach filling. It’s a matter of fact that Greektown makes some of the best Greek food in the region — brick-and-mortar or truck. Στην υγειά μας!
Sammies Vegan
Location: Wander Brewing (1807 Dean Ave.)
Info: sammies-vegan.square.site, @sammiesvegan
Sammie’s Vegan, usually found at Wander (but making pop-up appearances all over) is one to keep an eye on if you keep a plant-based diet. Dishing up vegan cheesesteaks and a rapidly moving menu of other creative sandwich options, Sammie’s shines in the quality of their house-made seitan — a sixth-century Chinese invention, simply being wheat gluten kneaded, flavored and cooked into a toothsome, incredibly high protein meat substitute. I’ve attempted to make it at home before, and the results of my experimenting confirm that Sammie is a bona fide pro.
On my last visit, I tried both their staple cheesesteak and a buffalo not-quite-chicken sandwich. The cashew-based cheese sauce used on the cheesesteak was a bombshell. It hit all the flavor notes I expect from a Cheese Whiz, sans any animal ingredients. As a lactose-intolerant cheese lover, I’d really appreciate being able to buy a jar of this. The seitan was sliced finely and crisped beautifully, all served atop a fabulously soft sandwich roll. The overall sandwich was shockingly similar to a real-deal cheesesteak. It might not fool a Philly local or a refined palate like my own, but that’s not bad — it maintains its own flavor identity.
The real shock came from the buffalo tastes-like-but-is-not-chicken sandwich. The seitan’s texture was pretty much spot on, while the buffalo sauce’s vinegary bite and an icy Wander beer absolutely hit the spot. Items from past menus at Sammie’s include a pizza cheesesteak, the occasional biscuits and gravy brunch, and a current (at the time of writing) buffalo chicken waffle collaboration with Sweet As Waffles, now a brick-and-mortar.
Plant-based and vegan restaurants in Bellingham have often suffered from the mistaken belief that accommodating the strictest of diets means you can’t also accommodate those without restrictions. When they close, there is much weeping and gnashing of teeth, without realizing that the closure was due to uninspired and mediocre food “appealing” to vegans solely due to lack of choice, and no one else. Not so here. Sammie’s hits the spot for all comers, and I hope to see more from them. The concept of vegan comfort food is one that I think deserves further exploration.
Bánh Mì and Bubble Tea
Location: 2604 Meridian St.
Info: banhmibubbletea.com
Bánh Mì and Bubble Tea, sitting pretty (and permanently) at 2604 Meridian St., is an absolute sleeper of a food truck. The menu has, as expected, a selection of bánh mì and bubble teas. You can load up on vermicelli bowls, teriyaki and fried rice, but take my advice and try the bánh mì first.
Bánh mì is a fascinating sandwich. The name literally means “bread,” referring to the French colonial influence holdout of the baguette. The sandwich is a fusion of traditional Vietnamese flavors and Western ingredients.
You can find just about anything tucked into the crusty, airy bread — my favorite is the BBQ pork, with fresh sliced jalapeños. If you’re feeling traditional, the appropriately named Traditional bánh mì comes with sliced ham, Vietnamese pork roll (cha lua) and French pate. Cha lua is pureed pork, seasoned heavily, mixed with starch and steamed in a banana leaf. They’re all served with fresh cucumber, cilantro, and pickled carrot and daikon.
The savoriness of the protein is complemented beautifully by the snap of the cucumber and the vinegar bite of the pickles. The baguette they use is fabulously crusty and incredibly good.
Even more impressive is the price: $7.99 for a 9-inch sandwich is an awesome deal. You’ll find sides like excellent char siu bao and shrimp/pork egg rolls to round out your meal, and fantastic Vietnamese iced coffee to wash it all down with. I find myself preaching the gospel of Bánh Mì and Bubble Tea to anyone I can corner. With a wide menu, fast service and delivery, ordering a bánh mì for lunch at your desk can provide a fantastic bit of color to the gray of an office job lifestyle.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.
