We may be heading into September, but summer produce is still in full swing. My garden is bursting with leafy greens, tomatoes and zucchini, and I spy oodles of squash and cucumbers up and down my neighbors’ gardens. If you have a garden, or a generous neighbor, or a nearby market overflowing with produce, you may also have an overabundance of fresh fruits and vegetables. This is prime time for root-to-leaf cooking!
This recipe column makes the most of every edible part of these seasonal pleasures, and this month we’re taking a deep dive into the cucumber. One common concern with the cucumber: Some cucumbers are bitter. In all cucumbers, a compound called cucurbitacin is present. This is the cause of the bitter flavor. Though the compound usually stays in the vegetative parts of the plant (and not the fruit), the compound spreads to the fruit when the cucumber plant is under stress, like during sustained high temperatures or dry weather. When this happens, cucurbitacin generally resides in the skin of the fruit.
When you have a bitter cucumber, peeling it will usually take care of the bitter flavor. But these peels are still edible, and delicious. You don’t even have to peel your bitter cucumbers. You just have to know what to do with them.
How to curb bitterness
If growing your own, pick plant varieties that have been cultivated for sweetness. When buying, choose smaller cucumbers with thin skins; often, seedless varieties are less likely to be bitter as well.
If you come home with a bushel of cucumbers that turn out to be bitter, choose flavor pairings and preparation techniques that temper the bitter note. Salt, sugar, acid and fat all help tame bitter flavors.
Salt
Slice your cucumbers and soak the slices in salt water for at least half an hour, then rinse and drain. The salt will draw out the excess moisture in the cucumber, drawing out some of the cucurbitacin compounds at the same time.
Sugar
This kitchen trick is as old as kitchens. Sprinkle a pinch of sugar or drizzle a tiny amount of honey into your cucumber dish and let it meld for a while. The sugar melts in the cucumber’s moisture; you won’t taste sugar, you’ll only taste, well, tastier cucumbers.
Acid
Citrus or vinegar balances out any bitter flavors. Whisk up a dressing made with lemon, lime, grapefruit or orange juice, or make a vinaigrette (don’t forget a pinch of sugar in either!) to toss with your cucumbers.
Fat
Full-fat yogurt, coconut milk and olive oil will all draw out more sweetness in your dish. Think raita, gazpacho drizzled with olive oil, or coconut milk salad dressings.
Cucumber-lime summer sauce
This recipe uses all four flavor-balancing elements: salt, sugar, lime zest and juice, and olive oil.
- 1 large cucumber or two small (about 10 ounces)
- Fresh mint leaves, about 1/4 cup
- 1 jalapeno or birds eye chili pepper
- 1 lime, zest and juice
- 1/4 teaspoon salt
- 3/8 to 1/2 teaspoon sugar
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- Wash and peel your cucumber and roughly cut into 2-inch chunks; add pieces to a large rimmed platter. Reserve the peels.
- In a small food processor or blender, or in the cup attachment of an immersion blender, add cucumber peels, half of the fresh mint leaves, one whole jalapeno (de-seeded for less heat), zest and juice of one lime, salt and sugar. Blend. Drizzle in the olive oil and blend until the mixture becomes a pourable consistency. If the sauce is thicker than you like, add a few chunks of the peeled cucumber and blend again. The high water content will thin the sauce.
- Taste and adjust seasonings. If using peels that are more bitter, you may want to add 1/2 teaspoon sugar and a little extra salt. Blend again.
- Prepare the cucumber salad. Using the base of your hand or a potato masher, press on the cucumber pieces until they give, breaking apart into slightly smaller pieces.
- Drizzle the sauce over the cucumber pieces, and garnish with remaining mint leaves, torn or whole.
Variations
This salad can be as simple or elaborate as you like. Cubes of cantaloupe or watermelon are a classic pairing to a cucumber salad. Consider adding fresh basil leaves, thinly sliced red onion, arugula or pickled onion. Crushed peanuts or pistachios add more crunch. Add feta, soft cubes of tofu, fresh or smoked salmon, or caramelized ground pork to make it a meal.
You’ll have sauce left over from this recipe. Drizzle over sweet melon, blend into green gazpacho, add to mixed drinks (margaritas or lemonade are two of my favorites with this sauce), or drizzle over seafood and grilled chicken.
Wine pairing
Pair this zesty, herbal dish with a similarly lively Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand Sauv Blancs would particularly be great). For an off-the-beaten-path option, try Txakoli (pronounced cha-coh-lee). This mineral, dry and lightly effervescent white wine from the Basque is the epitome of summer.
Hannah Green's Root-to-Leaf column appears monthly.
