Root-to-leaf cooking uses all edible parts of the plant with a focus on seasonal ingredients, grown and sold close to home. Garlic is one of the first alliums to make an appearance in spring, with gorgeous variations in size, color and taste.
Farmers market stands are bursting with striped purple garlic, oversized elephant garlic (actually a member of the leek family, but used the same as garlic culinarily) and a dozen varieties of softneck garlic, which is the most common variety sold in grocery stores.
The cloves are not garlic’s only contribution to culinary pursuits; the papery skin is full of flavor and can amp up the garlicky factor in soups and broths. The following recipe for garlic broth with garlicky toast makes use of the whole head of garlic, actually left entirely intact while cooking.
The flavor takes a little longer to develop this way, but it’s totally hands-off and you don’t have to peel or chop fresh garlic. Additionally, cooking the whole head transforms the garlic cloves into rich, golden, buttery orbs with a sweet, mild flavor.
Garlic develops stronger, more bitter flavors after it’s been cut; finely minced garlic will develop this bitter compound more quickly than sliced garlic, which in turn develops bitter compounds more quickly than whole or halved cloves. The more intact the garlic is, the milder the taste.
I still wanted a significant garlicky taste for this broth, though, so I tested this recipe in three formations: one whole head of garlic; one head of garlic cut in half horizontally; and one head of garlic, cloves separated and smashed. The whole head of garlic was overwhelmingly the winner. The broth was rich, lightly sweet and, most importantly, not at all bitter. The soft cloves are akin to whole roasted garlic, but the overall flavor is milder.
This broth is an excellent base for many dishes. Soups, stews and meat or vegetable braises are obvious contenders (egg drop soup and matzo ball soup are particularly good with a garlic broth base), but I also use this to cook pasta for aglio e olio, simmer ramen noodles, drizzle into mashed potatoes, or poach wantons or even eggs for a punchy brunch dish.
The buttery garlic cloves are like soft liquid gold. Use the mashed cloves in garlic butter, toss with roasted potatoes or hearty vegetables, swirl into bacon jam, or use for a garlic and olive oil pizza base.
Garlic broth with garlicky toast
Ingredients
1 large head of garlic or 2 smaller heads, about 3 ounces total
3 cups water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1–2 slices sourdough bread (or bread of choice)
Wash the whole head of garlic and rinse thoroughly. Put in a small pot and add three cups of water. Bring the pot to a boil, cover partially with a lid, then turn the heat to a low and steady simmer for an hour, untouched.
When the broth is just about ready to come off the heat, toast the sourdough.
Remove broth from heat. Carefully remove the head of garlic from the broth and place on a rimmed cutting board. Skim off any garlic skins left in the broth. Add salt to broth to taste. (Salt after cooking because the broth will concentrate as it cooks down.)
Using a spoon and a fork gently tease apart the cloves and pry open the skins. Scoop out the cloves. The garlic will be buttery soft, smooth and lightly sweet and aromatic; mash the cloves with the back of a spoon and spread as much as you like on your toast. Serve with broth.
Garlic broth variations
Aromatic soup: Add 1 teaspoon each freshly grated ginger and minced lemongrass, and 1 teaspoon fish sauce or soy sauce in place of salt, along with juice from 1 lime, sliced red chilis and a handful of cilantro.
Wonton-style soup: Add 1/4 cup pineapple juice, 1 block roughly torn silken tofu, 1 tablespoon sesame chili oil, and a handful of sliced scallions. Heat soup to a bare simmer and add pre-made wontons or plain wanton wrappers and cook through.
Egg drop soup: With broth on a bare simmer, drizzle in one or two lightly beaten eggs while stirring in a circular motion until the eggs have tightened. Remove from heat, and add 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil, and a handful of sliced scallions.
Chicken and rice soup: Add 1/2 cup sliced mushrooms, 1/4 cup green peas, 1 cup cooked rice (white, brown or wild), a large pinch of fresh thyme or oregano, and 1 cup shredded chicken.
Simple green vegetable soup: Add 1 handful of spinach, half a small zucchini, diced, 1 small baby bok choy, sliced lengthwise, and 1/2 cup snap peas. Simmer over low heat for 7–8 minutes.
Notes: Remove the smell of garlic from your hands by rubbing them on stainless steel; I use the faucet on my sink before wiping down the faucet.
Hannah Green’s Root-to-Leaf column runs on the first Wednesday of every month.
