In this monthly column, I focus on a single ingredient that’s in season, grown and available locally, and has far more than one use. “Root-to-leaf” applies the principles of “nose-to-tail” cooking to fruits and vegetables, using the greens, roots, peels, stems, flowers and everything in between.
A winter squash, kabocha is sweet-fleshed, gorgeously orange and makes a dramatic presentation as a serving bowl. The flesh is mild and earthy, and the skin is delicate enough to eat. In the following recipe, filling the kabocha bowls with a savory coconut custard makes it even sweeter. The texture of lush crème brûlée, this custard is flavored with black pepper, dry sherry and a hint of sugar, which complement the nuttiness of the kabocha. The squash is first roasted by itself to become tender and caramelized, then cooled and cut into bowls that the custard will bake in.
Kabocha grows in many sizes. A 1-pound squash makes two side-dish servings, and a 2-pound squash makes two main-dish servings. The filling options are nearly endless for a squash bowl. Wild rice pilaf, sage and sourdough stuffing, spicy ground pork and Thai basil, or red curried vegetables are all delicious. If you can’t find kabocha, acorn squash is a lovely substitute.
Recipe for Roasted Kabocha Squash Bowls with Savory Coconut Custard
Ingredients
2 small kabocha squash for a side dish (makes 4 bowls), or 2 large squash for a main dish (makes 4 bowls)
Olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut each squash in half through its poles. With the cut sides facing upward, cut a small sliver on the bottom of each half to ensure the bowls lie evenly on a baking sheet. Rub the cut side of the bowls with olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes until a knife inserts easily through the skin. Cool to room temperature.
Savory Coconut Custard
Ingredients
3/4 cup canned coconut milk, whisked to blend solids and liquids
3/8 cup heavy whipping cream or broth
1 1/2 teaspoons dry sherry or sherry vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper
4 egg yolks, reserving whites
While the squash is cooling, make the savory coconut custard. I find that a silky custard is most consistently achieved by slowly warming the cream/coconut milk and egg yolks. Egg-based custard is most likely to split when heated too quickly; so slowly warming the eggs allows their protein structures to relax and stay silky smooth. A little sugar also helps prevent splitting, as sugar delays coagulation and helps stabilize the custard. It also adds a delicious hint of sweetness to the dish.
You can use either heavy cream or your favorite broth to add to the coconut milk. Cream makes a more subtle custard, highlighting the aromatics of the sherry and black pepper. I like this option for a main dish serving size. Broth makes a strongly flavored, umami-laced custard that would make a delicious side dish to a simple or meaty main dish. For this recipe, I used a “no-chicken chicken” broth and the result was divine. Makes four side-dish servings; double for main-dish serving.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Combine the coconut milk and either cream or broth in a small pot. Warm the coconut mixture on the stove to barely a simmer, then turn off the heat and cover during the next step. Whisk the egg yolks, sherry, sugar, pepper and a dash of salt in a separate, heat-proof bowl until lightened in color but not frothy.
Slowly pour a trickle of the warm cream into the eggs, whisking continuously. Add the rest of the cream in this manner until fully incorporated. Some cooks like to strain the mixture to be certain there are no lumps, but I’ve found that being patient with tempering results in a perfectly silky texture without needing to clean a strainer.
Pour the custard into prepared kabocha bowls and bake, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes. Gently shake the pan to check for doneness; the custard should be barely set around the edges and have a nice wiggle in the middle. The custard will firm up while cooling, and it’s better to have a slightly underbaked custard than overbaked.
Cool the custard cups for a minimum of two hours, or overnight. Warm in the oven before serving if you like, or serve room temperature. Slice into wedges or serve as whole bowls. Top with crunchy kabocha seeds and serve.
Crunchy kabocha seeds
Ingredients
1 egg white
Kabocha seeds, pulp removed
1/8 teaspoon spice (including cardamom, chili powder, cayenne pepper, cinnamon, curry powder, or any other of your choosing)
The custard calls for egg yolks, so use one of the whites to coat the squash to make crunchy roasted kabocha seeds to sprinkle on the custard bowls. Reserve remaining egg white to roast other seeds or nuts. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. In a small bowl, beat one egg white. Whisk in spice, along with a dash of salt. Add the seeds and stir until coated. Spread the seeds on the prepared baking sheet and bake until crispy, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool, then serve.
