This monthly column explores root-to-leaf cooking, which uses all edible parts of the plant, with a focus on ingredients grown and sold locally.
The spring onion is our highlight this month. These gorgeous alliums are everywhere right now! Closely resembling scallions (sometimes called green onions) or leeks, this springtime delicacy is actually the same plant as the common onion, harvested while still young and sold with the greens attached.
All spring onions have a bulb and long green stalks, but the characteristics of each vary. Some bulbs are round and purple, some are oval and green; some stalks are thick and flat; some are narrow and cylindrical. These variations don’t have an effect on the flavor, however. Regardless of size or color, you can use any spring onion in the recipes and ideas below.
The root, bulb and greens each have something wonderful to offer. The roots may be the most miraculous; intact, unplanted roots can regrow green stalks that have been cut. I’ve had luck regrowing green stalks three or four times from the same root, which makes these little vegetables some of the most bountiful and rewarding.
You may already have a jar of scallions on your kitchen windowsill, and spring onions regenerate in the same fashion. Cut off the onion bulb, leaving about half an inch of bulb and the long, stringy roots. Place the roots cut-side-up in a clear jar that holds the roots fairly snugly to keep them upright. Pour in enough cool water to cover the root strands, and leave in a sunny place.
New stalks will begin to grow in just a couple of days, and with good sun, they can regrow to their former height in about a week. Change the water regularly to keep it clear. If you have a garden or green thumb, replant the roots in soil once the shoots are 4 or 5 inches long for years of greenery.
Use your fresh green stalks just as you would scallions. If the stalks are particularly wide, you can grill the greens whole directly on the grill, flipping every few minutes to evenly char the stalks. You can also slice the stalks into inch-long pieces and use them to separate cubes of meat or vegetables for kebabs. To use as a fresh topping for salads, noodles or savory pancakes, slice wide stalks length-wise before chopping them into cross sections for uniform pieces.
The bulbs have a flavor similar to shallots, with a mild, sweet note and soft, creamy texture. Unlike shallots, they have little to no papery skin to peel, expediting the process and making for an easier weeknight meal. In the following recipe, we prepare the bulbs in a very simple, versatile way to enjoy with a multitude of meals.
Poached spring onion bulbs
6 spring onion bulbs, roughly 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter
1 tablespoon butter or olive oil
2 cups broth, or equal parts broth and white wine
Salt
Slice the roots from the bulbs to regrow, and save the greens for another use. Split each bulb in half through the poles. Place onions cut-side-down in a flat-bottomed pan, and add broth to just cover the widest part of the bulb. Add butter or oil to the pan. Heat on medium to bring the broth to a simmer.
Poach the onions slow and low until the liquid is just about a centimeter above the bottom of the pan, about 20–25 minutes (depending on the size of the bulbs). The onions will become translucent and buttery-soft.
Once the onions are fall-apart tender, turn the heat to high and boil off the rest of the liquid so that the onions become glossy and coated. The cut sides will start turning golden in some spots, but we’re not looking for a deep brown or caramelized color here. Turn off the heat once the liquid is fully reduced. Sprinkle with salt and serve.
You can certainly play with flavors here; use chicken or vegetable stock, add white wine or lemon juice, throw in a bay leaf, peppercorns or parsley stems. Match the liquid and aromatics to the dish you will serve with these.
Serve whole as a side dish to any summery meal. Lightly smashed, the onions make a delicious spread on toast, BLTs or burgers. Slice them and use them as a salad topping, or mince them for a vinaigrette. If using another recipe that calls for cooked shallots or onions, replace with these onions in equal measure. Raw spring onion bulbs can also be used in equal measure in place of raw shallots.
Enjoy whole spring onions for as long as the season allows, and regrow the roots for gorgeous green stalks all summer long.
Hannah Green’s Root-to-Leaf column runs on the first Wednesday of every month.
