This monthly column explores root-to-leaf cooking, which uses all edible parts of the plant, with a focus on ingredients grown and sold locally. Our golden ingredient this month is corn, using both the kernels and the cobs.
Creamy, pale-yellow polenta is studded with juicy kernels and velvety creamed corn, adding a three-dimensional flair to the dish. Using corn cobs to make the broth lends the perfect note of sunny sweetness to this simple but decadent meal.
Corn Broth
8 ears of corn
Pinch of salt
8 cups water
Step 1: Husk the corn, then cut kernels from cobs. In a large bowl, hold cob upright and cut kernels into the bowl. Reserve kernels for creamed corn or another use.
Step 2: Put cobs in a large, flat-bottomed pot and just cover with water, about 8 cups. (Here you can get creative with either savory or sweet variations; see note 1 below.) Add a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then turn heat to low. Simmer for 45–60 minutes, until broth is infused with flavor. If you have extra cobs on hand, use more cobs for a stronger flavor.
Step 3: Remove from heat and immediately transfer corn broth to a large bowl (you can use the same bowl used for cutting kernels). Using the back of a paring knife, scrape the sides of the cobs to release all of the juice into the broth. No need to strain, unless you’re using clear broth for another recipe. Reserve cobs for another use (see note 2). Taste broth and salt to taste. If further concentrating the broth for another recipe, wait until reduced to add salt. Makes about 5 cups. Corn broth is incredibly versatile (see notes 3 and 4).
Creamed Corn
You won’t find actual cream in this; the natural juice inside each kernel creates a creamy consistency without additional cream.
Corn kernels cut from 8 cobs, about 5 1/5 cups
1/4 cup butter or butter substitute
Step 1: Melt 1/4 cup butter in a large pot. Add corn kernels. Cover and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes.
Step 2: Using an immersion blender or stand blender, purée about half of the corn kernels. Stir together whole kernels and purée. Salt to taste. Makes about 4 cups.
Polenta
1 cup dry polenta, coarse or finely ground
5 cups corn broth
Pinch of salt
Step 1: Put 1 cup polenta and 5 cups cold corn broth into large pot. Whisk polenta into broth. Starting with cold broth helps prevent lumps from forming.
Step 2: Bring the mixture to a simmer, whisking to prevent lumps. Continue whisking as the polenta starts to thicken, 2–3 minutes. Turn heat to low. Whisking thoroughly every 10 minutes or so, continue to cook polenta for 50–60 minutes; the longer cooking time makes the polenta deliciously plump and silky. If polenta becomes very thick, add 1/4 cup water at a time while whisking to thin out. If desired, stir in 1/4 cup butter for additional creaminess. Salt to taste. Makes about 6 cups.
Polenta with Creamed Corn
After polenta is done, with pot still simmering, fold the creamed corn into polenta and let warm. Remove from heat and serve. (For variations, see note 5.) Makes about 10 cups, enough for 5 main servings.
Notes
1. Corn broth variations: For a savory dish, add bay leaf, peppercorns, halved onion or a few cloves of garlic to the broth. For a sweeter side, add two tablespoons of sugar, a squeeze of lemon juice or a teaspoon of vanilla.
2. Uses for corn cobs: Dry cobs can be tossed on top of charcoal in a grill, or used as a platform to raise large cuts of meat off the bottom of a roasting pan (such as chicken or pork loin).
3. Uses for corn broth: Use in place of broth or water in chowder, soups, risotto, rice, corn jelly, light curries, summer pasta sauce, fried rice, cornbread and more.
4. Corn-infused cream variation: You can also use corn cobs to infuse cream for a subtle note in any cream-based dessert. Use 1 cob per 1 cup of cream. Put cob and cream in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Immediately cover the pan and remove from heat, and infuse for 15 minutes. Scrape the sides of the corn cob with the back of a paring knife to release any additional juices into the cream. Use cream as directed in recipe. This is beautiful in creme brûlée, panna cotta, homemade ice cream or corn custard and blueberry pie.
5. Polenta with creamed corn variations: Top with or stir into bowls: chorizo and pickled jalapeños. Honey and cheddar. Rhubarb chutney and cardamom. Coconut cream and chili crunch. Black beans and roasted tomatoes.
Hannah Green’s Root-to-Leaf column runs on the first Wednesday of every month.
