This monthly column explores root-to-leaf cooking, which uses all edible parts of the plant, with a focus on ingredients grown and sold locally. Our green ingredient this month is celeriac, a knobby, green-brown bulb often found next to the root vegetables at the grocers.
Though celery and celeriac are of the same species, celery is cultivated for its long, green stalks, while celeriac is cultivated for its large, round root. Celeriac has a taste similar to celery, but with a more concentrated and earthy flavor. The texture is wildly different from celery stalks and is closer in comparison to a turnip.
If you’re lucky enough to have a very fresh source for celeriac, you’ll likely receive a bulb with green stalks and leaves still attached. These are absolutely edible! They are remarkably similar to the common celery stalk, though also with a stronger flavor. In general, the larger the celeriac bulb, the more fibrous the stalks, so use those from larger bulbs in longer-simmering recipes or broths.
Treat younger, more tender stalks as you would celery. (And you’re eating your celery leaves, right? These are the parsley of the celery world.) Most vendors dispose of the stalks and leaves, however, because the stalks can draw moisture from the bulb, resulting in a tough, dry celeriac that wilts prematurely. Separate your stalks from the bulb right away and store separately.
Most recipes for celeriac instruct you to peel the skin. While this may be a good choice for raw or quickly cooked celeriac, the skin is indeed edible and delicious, and I’ll take any opportunity to skip peeling a vegetable. Refer to specific recipes for notes on peeling.
The easiest way to clean celeriac is the same method I use for potatoes: Place the whole bulb in a bowl of warm, soapy water and let it soak for about 20 minutes. When softened, cut away the brown beard of hairs that grow on the bottom of the bulb. Use a scrub brush in gentle circular motions and the loosened dirt will come off easily. Rinse thoroughly, and proceed with the recipe. If peeling, scrub the whole bulb beforehand, then save the clean peels for broths or basting liquids.
One thing to remember: Celeriac oxidizes within a matter of minutes. The brownish tinge won’t affect its taste, but cut celeriac right before use or put the cut celeriac in a bowl of cold water to protect its color.
Our recipe for the month is actually three recipes, each a different way to prepare this enigmatic root whole, with the skin. Roasting, braising and boiling are each fairly simple and showcase the versatility of the root.
Roasted
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Prick the bulb all over with a paring knife or fork. Rub bulb generously with olive oil or a combination of oil and melted butter; salt liberally over all sides. Roast on a rimmed baking sheet between 2 hours and 15 minutes, and 2 1/2 hours, turning the bulb every half hour so all sides come into contact with the baking sheet, ensuring an even golden-brown. Roast until the bulb becomes meltingly soft, with no resistance when tested with a fork or knife.
Braised
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Quarter celeriac. Put quarters in a small baking dish; cover halfway with broth or other braising liquid, one to two cups of broth per bulb. Add a splash of white wine or a tablespoon of butter if you like. Bake between 2 hours and 15 minutes, and 2 1/2 hours, turning over quarters halfway through. The celeriac is done cooking when it gives no resistance when tested.
Boiled
Put whole celeriac in a small pot. Cover bulb with water or broth; if using water alone, salt. Bring to a low boil, cover pot and cook for an hour until the bulb is fully soft and easily pierced with a fork.
Differences in methods
Boiling the root gives it a mild and earthy tone, somewhere between a sautéed celery stalk and a baked potato. It’s easy to switch up a dish by changing the boiling liquid, which will absorb into the bulb. The creamy texture lends itself well to being mashed or puréed. Consider using equal parts mashed potato and mashed celeriac, or puréed with roasted eggplant with lemon and tahini.
Braising concentrates the flavors of the liquid while infusing the celeriac with flavor, and the braising liquid can be made into sauce for the plated dish; you may choose to further reduce the braising liquid on the stovetop before serving.
Roasting gives the bulb an all-over caramelization. This brings out a mellow, sweet flavor and deeper, more complex notes. This also makes for a fairly dramatic presentation; leave the bulb whole and slice into wedges at the table, or slice into rounds and serve in a puddle of creamy, herby sauce.
Hannah Green’s Root-to-Leaf column runs on the first Wednesday of every month.
