The city of Lynden has a relative lack of upmarket, elegant dining spots. Steakhouse 9 is standalone now that the golf course is mired in a legal battle. The Mill at Seventh is quite nice, but not particularly social. You can drop into The Newsroom, the Thirsty Badger or Cancun Mexican restaurant, but I’d feel a bit self-conscious at any of those three wearing a button-down. I need to clarify that I’m not critiquing these other eateries, but we have to come from a place of honesty: For a fancier spot, you’re driving to Bellingham.
Well … maybe not. Graze and Gather Charcuterie and Bistro, at 115 Duffner Drive, is in the heart of the new development in Lynden, the brick-and-mortar expansion of a charcuterie catering business that has slowly evolved into a mainstay. Their website proudly lists a multitude of local bakeries, cheeseries, butchers and grocers that contribute to a cohesive but diverse menu: sandwiches and wraps, bruschetta and flatbread, bowls, and of course charcuterie.
The space is brand new, in a development named Lynden Commons. The ceiling is high, full of plants and excellent tile. It reminds me of Makeworth Market (conveniently, the supplier of their coffee) and Pure Bliss.
For $22, my charcuterie board was exactly what you’d expect — cured meat, fine cheese, crackers, and honey along with fruit. Described as being a “small serving for one to two”, I’m inclined to agree — but it’s clearly a space meant to accommodate small groups, and the plates certainly reflect that. Getting to pick at the plate while I sipped my coffee was a lovely experience. The quality of the ingredients was apparent, and I’m eager to see what spring and summer bring in the way of fresh ingredients.
I also got to try a new-age spin on the classic lox bagel with their salmon lox toast. The grain-heavy bread was warmed, but not crispy — a potential failing in some eyes, but I find myself more often annoyed by the classic cafe trope of artisan bread that requires a knife and aggressive sawing to make manageable. The flavors were excellent, tender lox mingling with juicy cherry tomato and the briny pop of capers. I especially appreciated being able to bite through it without some alligator-esque bite strength, no toppings lost to the seismic waves traveling through overly crisp bread. At $8, it’s also an absolute bargain.
The pesto prosciutto flatbread ($22) was ordered at the recommendation of my server, and I’m glad she suggested it. Sun-dried tomatoes, pesto, prosciutto, mozzarella and a generous balsamic drizzle combine to make one of the best flatbreads I’ve had recently. Eating a whole one in a sitting is certainly feasible, but add a few additional plates and you can easily find that a Gathering here could Graze comfortably.
Lynden is home to a smattering of bars, a gaggle of coffee stands, and a clutch of coffee shops — but none of them offer the particular vibe of Graze and Gather. Most places to get a cocktail in town are either bars or something more akin to a sit-down restaurant, serving burgers and fajitas. Graze and Gather fits the niche of “upscale” without crossing into being pretentious.
They serve Pure Bliss desserts, and beyond that, share Pure Bliss’ appeal, with a bright and airy space, large tables perfect for a book club or girls’ night, and take it all one step further with a very competent menu of savory options to go alongside the sweet.
Being able to have an uptown experience in distinctly pastoral, agricultural Lynden was an absolute treat. I think that Graze and Gather has found an untapped but lucrative niche in the north county, and I look forward to watching them succeed.
Graze and Gather is open from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday–Thursday and 7:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday–Saturday at 115 S. Duffner Drive, Suite D in Lynden. Info: grazeandgatherwa.com.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.
