There are, in my eyes, three distinct styles of taco. There is the auténtico: corn tortillas, whole muscle protein, cilantro and onion. There is the Taco Tuesday: black olives, ground beef and fluorescent nacho cheese. We’re discussing the third type today: the bourgeoisie taco.
Red Star Taco Bar is the newest resident at 1327 N. State St., redolent with the history of well-regarded but ill-fated restaurants. This is the third Red Star in existence, with sister locations in Seattle and Tacoma. They position themselves as being upscale takes on classic tacos; such a concept is common in the Southwest (see Torchy’s Tacos) but has seen less adoption in the Northwest.
Nearby, also housed in the large space left from Jack’s BBQ, the newly opened Sweet Bay Cafe promises to fill the morning hours with food and drink — when having a beer and plate of tacos may be frowned upon. But first, let’s visit Red Star.
The energy is positively poppin’. The music — hip-hop, primarily — has many people bobbing their heads while huddled in conversation. The lighting is low and intimate, with comfortable booths and beautiful murals. The space has been used effectively, and the buzz surrounding the opening is apparent. This first weekend open, the wait for a four-top table is quoted at an hour.
We put in for drinks (margaritas and Mexican beers), then started our order off with an order of queso ($12) with chorizo ($2).
For $13.50, you can pick any two tacos alongside an order of rice and beans. With tacos averaging to about $5 apiece, it’s a good value. On order today are the Sriracha Honey Tofu ($5), the Baja Fish ($5), the Carne Asada ($5.50) and a seasonal taco: the deluxe bacon cheeseburger ($5).
But before they arrive, a curious menu item draws my attention and earns a spot in the review: the Idaho “taco,” priced at 13 bucks. A baked potato, loaded with carne asada, queso, pico de gallo, salsa verde, lime crema and guacamole? What’s not to love?
The Idaho taco, mounded high with its cavalcade of toppings, is piping hot and delicious. The carne asada actually tasted like it had been grilled over an open flame, something missing from almost every single other local taco spot I’ve ever tried. It’s suitably sized to be an entree on its own. The diversity of the toppings — and how good they all are — paints a promising picture of the rest of the meal.
The queso was also excellent. It’s got a bite from the presence of roasted peppers and pico de gallo, offsetting the velvety smoothness of the actual cheese. The portion is generous, enough for four to share alongside a couple tacos apiece. If you don’t go in looking for a full meal, an order of queso (alongside the delicious margaritas) would make for a lovely evening out.
As for the tacos themselves? They are robust when it comes to portion size. The carne asada taco was one of the better ones I’ve had; it’s smokey and savory, topped with pico and lime crema to provide some acid. Simply a very solid carne asada taco. Eaten over the perfectly adequate rice and beans, any filling lost to gravity serves to improve the carbs on your plate.
The Sriracha honey tofu taco was the closest thing to a disappointment we had. While the flavor is good, the pineapple and tofu were both a bit too uniformly soft. A cabbage slaw on top added crunch, but speaking personally, I’d have liked the tofu to be fried crisp.
With a deep sense of deja vu, the cheeseburger taco actually tasted exactly like the frontrunners of my Burger Brawl. The bacon was crispy, the shaved sirloin toothsome, and the cheddar sauce just right. This made for a good sharing option for the pure novelty.
Finally, the Baja fish taco. This was, in a single word, astonishing. Every single ingredient came together in a symphony of flavor, every bite a bittersweet reminder that, as a candle burns brightly, so too is it consumed. Reader, I tell you without hyperbole that my eyes shut. The sound of the bar receded. My sense of touch faded away as my mind turned every neuron toward enjoying the flavors.
I went into this review skeptical. My relationship with the concept of bourgeoisie tacos has been clouded by my love of taco trucks and family-run Mexican restaurants. Red Star repaired my relationship with the concept as a whole. Twenty bucks gets you fed and watered, a decent value proposition considering the quality of the ingredients.
Sweet Bay Cafe
Shortly thereafter, I visited Sweet Bay Cafe on their first open day. It’s a wonderfully airy space, with floral motifs painted large across the arches. The menu is classically breakfast, with an accompanying lunch menu. Sitting around $15 per dish, it’s clear they’re not planning to unseat Denny’s, but it falls in line with most breakfasts in Bellingham.
I opted to take my sausage biscuit sandwich ($13) to go, alongside a cold brew (courtesy of Lighthouse Roasters, from Seattle). Upon sitting down at my desk to dig in, I was presented with a side salad and a foil-wrapped biscuit. The filling — sliced link sausage, a runny egg, aioli, and a slice of cheddar — was all good, but the biscuit is the star here. Crispy, flaky, buttery, savory.
The dynamic duo of Red Star and Sweet Bay is liable to shake up downtown’s breakfast and happy hour scene. The price point is right, and the quality is unquestionable. I can give them my stamp of approval — and if you stop in, there’s a very good chance I’ll be there guzzling coffee or quaffing those incredible fish tacos.
Sweet Bay Cafe is open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily, and Red Star Taco Bar is open from 4 p.m. to midnight daily. Both are located at 1327 N. State St. Info: redstartacobar.com.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.
